Poke (po-KAY), the Hawaiian staple, is finally gaining in popularity on the mainland. BaiKu’s version is worthy, with both a nod toward the traditional and some innovative twists. Cubes of fresh ruby-dark tuna are splashed with soy sauce and tossed with green onions, sea salt, chopped napa cabbage, and nibbles of bright Japanese chilies. It’s a salad—with a bowl of rice alongside—that’s substantial enough for a full meal with all the beautiful taste of the ocean.
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